Friday, 5 March 2021

Mr. Kelbie's Folly

Many thanks to a friend of Balintore for sending me this newspaper article from the 12th August 1992. It gives a very clear snapshot of the situation of the castle at that time, having been purchased by a Mr. R. Kelbie sight unseen and immediately put back on the market again when Mr. Kelbie realised his folly. :-)  You can click on the scan of the article below to read the text. However, I have digitised and appended the text of the article to this blog entry as my digital legacy to the world. :-)




The name “Kelbie” is new to me, so this is another link in the chain of ownership that I am delighted to find out about.  I knew it had gone through the hands of some developers fairly rapidly, but not that rapidly!


I would put the £1m estimated restoration cost in 1992 to be an underestimate, and later restoration estimates that I have heard have been considerably higher. I love the comment in the article that Balintore Castle has too many turrets for a private owner to take on. :-)


The Zeitgeist described in the article is still with us. The days of big developers reliably and readily taking on historic buildings is no longer with us, so there is more scope for private developers. The nouveau riche lack the patience for longer restorations. So this still leaves larger buildings, such as Balintore, to fall between two stools. And it was precisely this tragedy that braced me to take on the building.

Mary Miers who supplies most of the quotes in the article is directly responsible for me first finding out about Balintore, as it features in the Scottish “Buildings at Risk” register that she founded. It is ironic that she implores in 1992 that the threat of a compulsory purchase is used to save a building in Dunbartonshire, yet it took until 2007 for Balintore to be the first enactment of this law. With the many TV makeover shows over the last 10 years, especially "Escape to the Château", restoring historic properties has never been more fashionable. However, council resources to save problematic buildings in this country have been cut way back with many now lacking a dedicated conservation officer. We are in a worse position than 1992, and I don't think the compulsory purchase of Balintore could happen today.



LIFE & TIMES WEDNESDAY AUGUST 12 1992 HOMES 7

Recession to the rescue of old houses


As developers retreat, openings present themselves for private buyers eager to restore classic country properties. Rachel Kelly surveys opportunities


Few chatelains are more careful at this time than the owners of Scotland's dilapidated country houses. These owners could once feel confident that they would be able to sell their properties to developers for a packet, and would wait patiently for the highest bidder. But that was in the Eighties. Scotland's manses and castles were snapped up by developers and house-builders for conversion to hotels, flats, and, more than anywhere else in the country, golf clubs.


Owners no longer have such a range of would-be buyers. Although a few commercial developers are still interested in buying, large developers in the past two years have been beating a retreat south, whence many of them came, or into the arms of the receivers. Ironically, the recession has opened opportunities for private restorers of Scottish country houses.


The chief expert on such opportunities is Mary Miers. Based at the Scottish Civic Trust, she runs the trust's Buildings at Risk Service. Established in January 1990 and funded by Historic Scotland, the equivalent of English Heritage, Miss Miers has set up a computer database of all historic buildings in Scotland known to be in danger because of neglect or difficulty in maintenance. Over a thousand such buildings are now on her register and they are ripe for the small-time restorer.


Miss Miers says: “There is still plenty of interest in restoring manageable country houses from private restorers, and plenty of such houses are in need of rescue. Some owners are still unresponsive to such private restorers despite the disappearance of many of the bigger developers.”


In her view, the problem with many moderate-sized country houses is not so much lack of interest from the restoring public as the intransigence of their owners. She cites Woodbank House, Balloch, on the shores of Loch Lomond in Strathclyde, as a typical example of such proprietorial procrastination. The 18th-century mansion was used as an hotel until 1981. Then it was abandoned and has been decaying for nearly a decade.


The owner is known to be unwilling to sell. “Dumbarton District Council, which says the owner has refused any contact when approached on the matter, should serve a repairs notice," Miss Miers says. “Action, not talk is urgently needed before another winter passes, and if the owner cannot afford to do anything, he must be persuaded to sell, in the interest of saving this category A listed building."


Plenty of other potential restorers have expressed interest in the building, Miss Miers says. Her hope is that the recession will mean that owners no longer expect the crazy prices commanded by such country houses during the 1980s, and will therefore be able to attract more sensitive restorers.


Owner intransigence will melt, too, in the face of the increasing activity of conservation officers scattered through Scotland's councils, which may shame them into action, as may the ever brighter glare of publicity.


A private buyer is the Scottish Civic Trust's preferred buyer for such family-sized houses. Small, manageable country houses with good communications have never been short of such buyers even when they are in a deplorable state. It is the larger stately homes that are unsuitable for most families and are at greatest risk, such as Heveningham Hall in Suffolk. On the market for £4.5 million, it is unlikely to find a private buyer with the means to maintain such an important historic mansion.


Lord Ridley of Liddesdale's thesis that the nouveaux riches would take on such houses and establish themselves as neo-squires has yet to be proved. Although Alan Bond moved into Glympton, Oxfordshire, Peter de Savary moved into Littlecote in Wiltshire, and Abdul al-Ghazzi moved into Heveningham, they all moved out quickly. Few latter-day gentry have put down permanent roots at such enormous houses. Smaller houses fare better. Balgone, near Edinburgh, had long attracted family buyers. The house had been owned by the Grant-Suttie family since 1698, but Sir Philip Grant-Suttie had moved into a farmhouse more than 20 years ago, leaving the main house empty. The building was riddled with dry rot and with collapsed ceilings and walls.


Despite interest from developers over the years, Sir Philip delayed the sale, and only thanks to the delicate negotiations of Marcus Dean, an architect and conservationist, did he finally agree to sell to the Dean family in 1989.


Alan Dean, a retired doctor, and Fidelity, his wife are now installed. "Of course, the house is too big for us," he says. “But we liked the house and its position and were prepared to take on something bigger than we needed. The rooms are not too grand."


The restoration of Balgone is a resounding success story. With £100,000 of grants from Historic Scotland and the expert touch of Marcus Dean, who with Miss Miers is co-author of Save Britain's Heritage's Scotland's Endangered Houses, part of an ugly Victorian façade has been sensitively demolished. A baronial-style Victorian wing was also demolished, restoring the house to its 17th-century form and shrinking it to a more manageable size where a developer might have once extended it.


“There are two types of owners," Miss Miers says. “Those who bury their heads in the sand and do not want anyone to touch their family home. There are others who are more interested in the pound signs than in their nation's heritage."


Some opportunist homeowners sold out in the 1980s to developers, many of whom bit off more than they could develop. Now such houses are back on the market at inflated prices. Their frustrated owners and would-be developers want to sell but cannot afford to reduce their prices without taking a big loss. Some wrongly assume that planning permissions they have secured but not implemented add a hefty premium to near wrecks that look romantic but require big expenditure on basic maintenance.


One such house is Balintore Castle, near Kirriemuir in Tayside. An exuberant Scottish baronial-style castle, the property has changed hands several times recently. The owner, Mr R. Kelbie, bought it without even inspecting the interior and put it back on the market swiftly once he realised the nature of his speculation, and for an unrealistic price in the view of the need for more than £l million of repairs. He has recently halved his asking price to £50,000.


Such a house with its double-height saloon and abundance of turrets is unlikely to appeal to the private restorer, and would need a commercial rescuer. But other houses that once might have been turned into golf courses now have a second chance to be returned to use as family homes. The picture is far from rosy, and still under threat are plenty of buildings, such as Auchenbothie House in Kilmalcolm, Inverclyde, which lacks appeal for family buyers and in which developers are no longer interested, either. But for once, the recession has a silverish lining.


Monday, 22 February 2021

Winter 2020/2021

It is only now, given that the last of the snow departed from Balintore Castle just yesterday, that I feel I can make a blog entry about the harshness of this winter without tempting providence. The last month has been particularly hard with a neighbour recording a morning temperature of -18 C. At the same time, nearby Braemar, recorded -23 C, the coldest UK temperature in 26 years.  The castle is at an even greater altitude than my neighbour, so I suspect Balintore was challenging Braemar even more closely!

My builders, Greg and Gregor, were unable to get to the castle at all for around a week. Eventually, they managed to get to the end of the drive, but had to make the rest of the journey on foot carrying tools, etc, all the way up the steep and icy slope. I would like to thank them for going well beyond the call.


the west castle drive - newly passable with a 4x4


This has been the most extreme winter since I bought the castle. It has never been so cold and the snow has never been so deep. The winter of 2010 was more prolonged with my dishes frozen in my sink for three months solid, but it only reached -15C.  


deepest snow in my recollection


Of course, with the big thaw the plumbing inside the castle is now leaking and the roof leaks have re-opened up. The result has been considerable water damage, and some new plasterboard walls will have to be done again from scratch. This is the most demoralising situation: things are going backwards and I have to pay again for the same work to be done again. :-(

The cold temperatures managed to burst open two separate kitchen mixer taps! Neither my builder or myself have ever seen anything like this before: normally the weak points are the pipes themselves or the joints.

A few days ago my friend Paul kindly delivered some auction items round to the castle for me. His car couldn't quite make it up the drive due to the ice, so he carried each auction item up by hand, including a stuffed stag's head mounted on a plaque and a large glass case containing a stuffed gynandromorphic pheasant. It must have been exhausting! Just as he delivered the final auction lot by hand, a mutual friend drove up to the front door of the castle in a their 4x4! Again huge thanks for going beyond the call. I was not around at the time, so could not have helped - just in case anyone wants to make me feel guilty, lazy or both. :-)

Gynandromorphic, I feel, requires a definition. This is an animal that is partly male and party female. In this instance, the head is male and the body is female. Greg suggested a "cut and shut" job, a phrase which I had to look up. :-) However, I suspect this is very much the real deal, and I like to think that Balintore embraces the gender fluid, in a way that doesn't bend to the current fashion. So if you ever visit the castle and wish to be introduced to the resident gender-fluid pheasant (Victor/Victoria as I have named them) then I would be only to happy to make the introductions.

Victor/Victoria - the castle's only gender fluid pheasant

Saturday, 13 February 2021

Bonfire Party 2008

One of my lockdown tasks has been tidying up old file systems, and I was delighted to come across some photos my friend Andrew took at a bonfire party on the 14th October 2008. This was before I started the restoration blog, so now seems to be the right time to put these online. In fact I lost the photos again almost immediately and had use "Picasa" yesterday to grind through my file store to re-locate the images. 

By a happy accident, the red of the bonfire glow and blue of the evening sky work wonderfully and naturally together . No "colour grading" beloved of modern cinema was required. In consequence, they are some of the best images of the castle ever taken and even Andrew was pretty chuffed by his good fortune.




In fact, the photos were taken before most of the guests arrived, but we thought we better light the bonfire in advance as they can take some time to get going. This may have been the time we lit the huge bonfire in advance, only to find it went into rapid combustion that was akin to nuclear fission with essentially the whole bonfire burning away in 15 minutes before the guests arrived. Thankfully,  bonfires tend to have a long afterglow with considerable radiant heat, which works well at an open air event. In 2008 there was essentially no usable internal accommodation at the castle.



I was wondering about the identity of the small figures by the base of the tower. Andrew identified them as his father and his friend Irene. Andrew's father lit the bonfire and held a newspaper aloft for fun during the long timed tripod exposure.



During the early years at the castle I always held an annual bonfire around Guy Fawkes, and this is something that I should reinstate. Because, there were no facilities at the castle, this was the only type of party one could have, so one did it for morale. Anyhow, post-covid, watch out for those castle events.



Friday, 15 January 2021

Balintore Estate Roup 1855

This blog entry features an invaluable document from the archives, which helps to pin down the construction window for Balintore Castle and the ownership timeline for the Balintore Estate. Many thanks to polymath (incorporating Glen Isla amateur local historian) Kevin Greig for sending me the scan.

The scan of the front page of "The Montrose, Arbroath & Brechin Review, AND FORFAR AND KINCARDINESHIRE ADVERTISER" dated May 11th, 1855 features an advisement, dated 3rd May 1855, for the upcoming sale of the Balintore Estate on the 29th May 1855 by public auction at the British Hotel in Dundee.


the Royal British Hotel, Dundee

The British Hotel building still exists in Dundee at 2-4 Castle Street, classically embellished in the late 19th century, and now sadly featuring in the Scottish Buildings at Risk Register.

The text of the advert is here:

        VALUABLE HIGHLAND ESTATE IN FORFAR-           
                                SHIRE, FOR SALE.                                   
There  will  be  sold,  by  public roup, within the British Hotel,
   Dundee,  on  Tuesday,  the  29th  day  of May current, at one
   o'clock, afternoon, unless previously sold by private bargain,
THE   ESTATE  
 OF   BALINTORE   and   EASTER  COUL,
      in    the   parish   of   Lintrathen,   consisting  of  the  sunny
third  part  of  the  Town   and  Lands  of  Wester  Glenqhuarity
and   Balintore,  those  portions   of   the  Land  and  Barony  of
Eassie  called  the  third  part  of the lands of Glenqhuarity, and
of   the  third  part  of  the  Lands  of  Coul:  together  with   the
share  belonging  to  the  Estate  of the undivided Commonties;
all  as  it  belonged  to  the  late  Charles  Lyell, Esquire of Kin-
nordy.                                                                                           
    This  Estate is composed of the two Farms possessed by Mr.
James   Wilson   and  Mr.  Peter  Duncan,  with  the  Woodland
and the Hill Pasture and Hill Commonties.                                
    An  action  for  division  of  the  Commonties is in progress.
The   proper   Estate,  without  the  Commonties,  is reputed  to
extend  to  about  830  acres ; of which 367 are arable, 208 hill
pasture,   and   67  thriving  plantation.  The  Commonties   are
reputed  to  extend  to  from  4000  to 4700 acres, large portion
of which must fall to this Estate in the division.                         
    The   Water   of   Quharity   runs   through   the   Estate.  The
Loch   of  Lintrathen  is  only  about  two  miles  distant.  There
is  good  Grouse Shooting on the Hills, giving great promise of
making   a   most  desirable  station  easily  managed.  There  is
good  accommodation  for  residence  on  the  Hill in a superior
Farm  House  built  by  Mr.  Lyell  for the very object, and long
used  by  him  and  his family. For any one desiring a residence
of  a  better  kind,  there  are excellent sites giving great beauty
and great convenience for sport of all kinds.                              
    The  distance  from  the  Meigle Station of the Scottish Mid-
land  Railway  is  only  about  eight  miles, by excellent roads ;
so  the  residence  is within about fifteen hours of London. The
entry  and  payment  of  the  price  may  be arranged to suit the
purchaser.                                                                                    
    The whole Lands hold of the Crown for payment of a penny
Scots. The fee is full. The Teinds are valued and exhausted.     
    For  further  information,  application  may  be  made  to  C.
Kerr  &  Co.,  Writers in Dundee, who are in possession of the
title-deeds.                                                                                  
        Dundee, May 3, 1855.                                                        


A small glossary to help with the text above:

WORD

DEFINITION

roup

auction (Scots)

commonties

land (Scots)

teinds

tithe (Scots)

All these terms are new to me but I particularly love the word roup. Roup.com would be a good competitor to eBay. :-)

The associated scan is here:

newspaper scan from May 11th, 1855


It is hard to ascertain the actual amount of land in the Balintore Estate at the point of sale. I am not quite sure what is going on but I suspect the commonties may be the old common land that in the Victorian era was often moved into private ownership. So the Estate is anywhere from 830 acres to perhaps around 3000 acres, assuming it incorporates 50% of the commonties mentioned.

The Charles Lyell (deceased, 1767–1849) mentioned in the article is the father of Sir Charles Lyell (1797-1875). The latter being the famous founding father of geology and good friend of Darwin. It gets even more confusing as Sir Charles Lyell's grandfather is also called Charles Lyell.

However, let us call Charles Lyell (1767–1849) Charlie Snr. and Sir Charles Lyell (1797-1875) Charlie Jnr. At the date of the sale, Charlie Jnr. had owned the Balintore Estate for 5 years, having inherited it from his father Charlie Snr.. Perhaps, the sale allowed him to pursue or fund his academic interests?

The dates suggest that David Lyon bought the Balintore Estate from Charlie Jnr. in 1855, possibly at the public auction or possibly by prior private bargain hinted at in the article. The article mentions the building of a superior house, which suggests that David Lyon was perhaps already on the scene, as this was his exact plan. The farmhouse referred to is "Balintore House" which is a large impressive building and would be suitable for most people's needs. On the other hand the Lyell's lived at Kinnordy House and at that stage Balintore House was operating as a farm house, despite having once been a castle, so an aspiring gentleman landowner might not have stooped to occupying a farmhouse?

Perhaps, the threat of the public auction was a way to get Lyon to increase his bid for the estate? An article from 1858 detailing building plans for Balintore Castle says that Balintore Estate was purchased "some time ago" by David Lyon. This leads me to conclude there were no intermediate owners between Charlie Jnr. and David Lyon.

The spelling of Balintore is notoriously fickle. It has its modern form in this 1855 article, but is Ballintore in the 1858 article.




Wednesday, 13 January 2021

Parliamentary, my Dear Balintore?

There was a very good chance that Balintore Castle would have looked nothing like it does today, because the first architect employed was Sir Charles Barry. Barry famously worked with August Welby Pugin to design the present Houses of Parliament. I have been trying to hunt down Barry's plans for Balintore, because the prospect of a debating chamber instead of a dining room, and a members' lobby instead of a library is quite a charming one. :-)

 Sir Charles Barry (23rd May 1795 - 12th May 1860)


The following article appeared in the Aberdeen Journal on Wednesday, September 29th 1858:


    BALLINTORE  ESTATE,Sir   Charles   Barry, the eminent
architect  of  the Parliamentary buildings, visited Ballintore,
near  Kirriemuir,  on  Friday  last.  This fine Highland estate
was  purchased  some  time  ago  by David Lyon, Esq., Lon-
don.  Since  he  became  proprietor, vast sums have been ex-
pended   on   building,   making  roads,  and  other  improve-
ments;  and  the  proprietor  is  now  about  to  erect a family
mansion,  of  extensive  size,  to  be  richly embellished. It is
said the design and plans have been prepared by Sir Charles,
in  connection  with  which  his  visit  to  the  district was oc-
casioned,   in  order  to  superintend  the  staking  out  of  the 
ground  plan  of  the building, which will cover an area of 75
feet  square.  The  front  building  will  be  40  feet in height,
with   lofty  towers  at  each  angle,  finished  in  true  castel-
lated   style.  Specimens of  stone, square and polished, from
various   queries  in  the  country,  have  been   forwarded  to
London,   to  enable  the  architect  to  determine  from  what
quarry   the  hewn  work  will  be  taken.  From  the  quantity
required  (upwards  of  700  tons),  it will take a sum not less
than  from  £10,000  to  £12,000  to  erect and finish this fine
building,  which  will  far  surpass any mansion of its kind on
the Braes of Angus. The site selected is a very fine one.

Here is the scan of the journal page containing the article:

scan of Aberdeen Journal 29th September 1858

There are two obvious questions posed by the article:
  1. Why did architect William Burn take over?
  2. How long did the castle take to build?
Change of Architect

Barry died on the 12th May 1860, and suffered bouts of illness from 1837 onwards. One of the most severe bouts was in 1858, the date of this article. It is an easy conclusion that Barry gave up on the commission due to ill health, and that William Burn with his established reputation took over. The description of Barry's building, in its essential details, tallies with what Balintore is like today and the article implies David Lyon was happy with the plans, because the building was staked out.

So rather than any artistic differences between client and architect, it sounds like Burn simply took over where Barry left off, probably using the same dimensions and ground plan. However, how this volume was filled-in eventually was very much in the Burn style.

Update: 

Dr. Paul Bradley, who did his Ph.D. on William Burn has supplied the following update, in response to the earlier version of this blog article, which supports my theory:
 
"When it comes to Barry - he and Burn were friends, and I expect ill health meant he simply advised his client to contact the Stratton Street office. My feeling has always been that Burn (due to his own ill health) worked on this commission closely with his nephew MacVicar Anderson. "

Timescale of Build

I have often been asked how long the building took to build. My reply is "I don't know.". Dr. Paul Bradley says there are no written records for the construction of Balintore, unlike other Burn buildings.

wooden plaque dated Nov 28th 1860 was left in the sawdust insulation of the water tank at the top of the Great Tower by the castle carpenters. There are date stones of 1860 on the castle's west and south elevations. I am guessing this is the nominal finishing date, but the date on the plaque is at the end of the year so I am presuming finishing-off continued into at least 1861. It is notable the gate lodges were not present even as late as 1862.

However, this article dated Sept 29th 1858, before construction had started, suggests the build was essentially complete within 2 years, with the Great Tower certainly designed and raised within this period.

Update: 

I found this 2 year period hard to believe, but friends have been informing me of the surprising speed of Victorian country house building. James Hollis who is working on the restoration of Burn's Revesby Abbey in Lincolnshire reports:

"Revesby’s plans are dated 1843 and all of the finished dates around the house state 1845 so we’ve been thinking ours was built in two years as well which is unbelievable."

I should point out Revesby Abbey is around 5 times the size of Balintore!

Barry & Pugin

One of the great debates in architecture is the balance of works at the Palace of Westminster between Barry and Pugin. Pugin, I should say, is a great hero of mine, and I also love the work of his fellow maverick neo-gothic architect William Burges.

The received wisdom when I was growing up was that Barry was the architect of the Palace of Westminster. Pugin assisted Barry and designed the interior. However, the current view as far as my understanding goes is that Barry and Pugin should be given joint credit.



Saturday, 9 January 2021

On Sale 1992

If you peruse the following property page from the "Aberdeen Press and Journal" dated 25 February 1992, you may spot a charming interloper. However, if you dislike challenges please scroll down as all will be revealed.


Anyhow, nestling in the centre of the bottom-left quadrant of the page is the following:


FOR SALE BY
PRIVATE
TREATY

Balintore  Castle.  Built  in
1860.  Beautifully  situated
near Glen  Isla. Substantial
building in need of internal
restoration.

Tel 024179300 or evenings
0241 77038.


Yup, in the company of humdrum domiciles, Balintore Castle was for sale. The past is certainly a different country, and property specs in the 1990's were not the cornucopia of Primelocation or Rightmove. One was largely restricted to limited details for local properties through the print media.

Tellingly, there are no details on the magnificence of Balintore. This is a developer trying to offload the castle which is, by then, in a pretty sorry state. I am unware who was selling Balintore in 1992, and don't know if anyone purchased the building at this time. If you have this information, please get in touch.






Sunday, 3 January 2021

The Moon and the Castle

Many thanks to the talented Bill Nicoll of Kirriemuir for this arresting image of Balintore Castle. A number of people shared it with me on Facebook, so it felt right to archive it in this blog. Bill had given his permission, of course, and guiltily admitted to some photo-shopping.  This is beside the point of course, Bill has captured the true spirit of the building from the romantic era

The Moon and the Castle

To donate to the Balintore restoration project click here.