Llwyn Celyn

partial panorama of Llwyn Celyn: front (double click for full VR experience)

full panorama of Llwyn Celyn: rear   (double click for full VR experience)

Having visited Wales on Monday and Tuesday of this week for the first time in decades, I now seem to be attached to the country by elastic and today (Saturday) visited a mediaeval hall house called Llwyn Celyn near the Brecon Beacons National Park. This was my fourth ever visit to Wales!

Llwyn Celyn was a prestige restoration project undertaken by the Landmark Trust between 2014 and 2018, and naturally I was following it very closely both online and on TV. There was a 2 part documentary series on More 4 broadcast in 2019 to which I was glued.

https://www.channel4.com/programmes/4-million-restoration-historic-house-rescue

The restoration cost £4.2m and deemed worthwhile as Llwyn Celyn is an astonishing survivor from 1420. The project ranks alongside Belmont House and Astley Castle as one of the most involved restorations undertaken by the organisation.

The reason for my visit was that my friend Duncan invited me. He is helping out over this weekend's Open Days and knew I was only a couple of hours drive away. Duncan designed, printed and made the curtains at Llwyn Celyn.

I had concerns that Llwyn Celyn was over-restored as it has been much "smartened up" and there is a great deal new light coloured woodwork (contrasting with the surviving dark coloured woodwork). There was a serious danger that it could look like a sterile new build, and indeed some of the photographs I had seen suggested this was the case.

Thankfully, the moment I stepped in and walked around, the atmosphere was warm, historic, cosy and inviting. It is am important lesson that warmth and warmth alone makes any house feel inviting on a cold winter's day. :-) If a drafty historic building is restored to "modern standards" then it is inevitable there will be some loss of character i.e. the building needs to be stripped, then repaired, and then put-back. Things will never quite be the same after this process, but the important issue is how this is done. At Llwyn Celyn, this has been done impeccably with new top quality oak joinery being used to "fill in the gaps". Most people could not afford this.

new wood for old on the staircase

One intriguing question is whether Llwyn Celyn in 1420 was as "warm and inviting" as it is today. My suspicion is that it was not, even though the building fabric was new. I don't think open fires could ever have been a match for the current under-floor heating, and modern building standards and windows. In short, as building dwellers we have become softies :-), and this poses a considerable challenge for colder and older historic structures.

The sparse but choice items used to decorate the interior are perfect. There is a "shaker" quality to all Landmark Trust interiors: uncluttered to make then practical as holiday lets but with enough historic character to make them period credible/authentic. There is a minefield of debate between period credible and period authentic.

I was taken by this small, cosy and erudite study (double click for full VR panorama experience)

The bathrooms are a triumph: they are modern but have been made to fit in with the historic interior through the use of natural materials and period detailing.

bathroom

another bathroom

The decision was made to dress the house in a 16th Century guise when the building moved into private ownership after the dissolution of the monasteries. Getting hold of 16th Century furniture is a little difficult, but at least the style is a known quantity and it is possible to locate pieces that channel this spirit.

bedroom

another bedroom

A couple of beautifully costumed historic re-enactors were certainly 16th Century period credible. :-) The lady provided some music on historic instruments.The sound of the psaltery or lap heart was particularly evocative. The gentleman, a real upholsterer by trade, was demonstrating the sewing of late medieval garments. I thought I was taking a panoramic photograph of the upper hall but for some reason this turned out to be a sequence of stills with the last being a nice candid photo of the gentleman.

period re-enactor

The major debate in the restoration, as I recall, was whether to return the great hall to its original full height. When great halls first appeared, the smoke from a fire in the centre went up through the roof, so they had to be full height. Later chimneys were built on side walls, and great halls were often divided into multiple floors. At Llwyn Celyn, the floor was itself of significant historic character so this was retained and repaired. I think this decision was correct.

Interestingly enough, the best rooms are the bottom and top halves of the great hall. The bottom-hall is a dining space with a huge open fireplace. The fire was lit on the open day and created a special atmosphere. The upper-hall is, in my opinion, the nicest space of all. Because you are "in the roof", the magnificent timberwork is there for you to enjoy at close quarters and the lower ceiling means that the volume is cosier and easier to heat than it would have been in 1420. There is no doubt this is a fantastic space to chill with friends in front of the woodburning stove. In short, Llwyn Celyn, is very livable. Who would not want this place as their home?

lower hall

upper hall

On the drive to Llwyn Celyn, I spotted Raglan Castle at the side of the road. Oddly enough, I had just been researching Raglan Castle with no notion of its actual location. Perhaps, another trip to Wales is called for? :-)

And just for fun, a 1420 fly-though tour !