Monday 3 January 2022

Orkney Trip Day 6

Day 6 of the Orkney trip was going to be the return journey from Balintore Castle via Glasgow to my house in Oxfordshire. However, Storm Arwen had put paid to the Balintore stop-off, by blocking roads in the vicinity, and Katherine and I had diverted to Glasgow instead.

So on day 6, I found myself in Glasgow with a morning to kill before the south-bound noon train from Glasgow Central. Katherine suggested we have a walk around the Gallowgate, an area in the East End of Glasgow where she lives. 

Some of my ancestors come from the East End of Glasgow, and despite having studied in Glasgow, I had never visited. My Mum had always told me that I would love the Barras - a legendry market there and my Granny often talked of the People's Palace. Since 1940's the People's Palace has been a museum of social history for Glasgow. Probably the most famous exhibit nowadays are Billy Connolly's banana boots. :-)

Katherine was the perfect tour guide as she is an encyclopaedia for the area, knowing the historic pubs and the hangouts of notorious gangsters of the past. This area of Glasgow has still not been gentrified, though Katherine fears this is coming, so even though there is a big city vibe, it is still a place where families have lived for generations bringing a cultural richness and depth that is palpable. Katherine bemoaned the deprivation and the "health poverty" but clearly holds the place in great affection, even though she is a Highlander rather than a born Weegie. :-)

She showed me the Clutha Pub, where infamously a helicopter crashed in 2013 killing 10 people and injuring 31. The pub is covered in a commemorative mural, and I understand part of the building now serves as a memorial.

So yes, I loved the East End: the Barras, the People's Palace and the Barrowland Ballroom. The latter is a iconic entertainments' venue - which often lends its name to this area of Glasgow: "Barrowland". I should really visit when these attractions are open, but very much enjoyed making an unexpected new connection, thanks to Arwen, with my Mum and Granny who are now both long gone.

I have been in touch with an antiques dealer in the Barras via Facebook. He has reclaim doors and other architectural antiques from big Victorian villas in the city. He insisted I should visit him at the Barras, but I said I needed to know the sizes of the doors first as it is a long trip to come back empty-handed. Perhaps this is an unrealistic demand, as I am sure it is a rough and ready establishment where sizes technicalities are not uppermost. I could not find this dealer when Katherine and I rushed around the market area, but everywhere was closed so I couldn't even ask any questions. I need to revisit on a Saturday which is market day


The Barras - a pair of fine Victorian buildings here - click on the image several times for a VR panorama


Whilst travelling, it is the unexpected which holds the magic. I thought this was purely a trip to Orkney, but diverted by a storm, I got in touch with my past in Glasgow.

My thanks go to Mark for the invitation to his Westray dinner party. I am sure he had no idea of the adventures that would result. :-)

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